Angelo's Shoe and Leather Specialists
Articles/Tips
Here you can find some helpful tips and info on leather care, repair and restoration.
ARTICLE LIST
All About Leather
Types of Leather
Finished and Unfinished Leather
Do’s and Don’t of Leather Care
Quick Care and Cleaning Tips for the “Big 3” Leather Types
Some Misconceptions and Facts about Leather
Tips to Help You Properly Clean and Condition Leather
Leather Cleaning Tips
Five Great Tips for Removing Stains from Your Leather
How to Love Your Leather
All About Leather
Leather is a natural product that reacts differently to soil and light. Some types of leather have greater resistance because of the techniques used in finishing the hides. The natural surface of leather is like a landscape, with varying textures and shadowy furrows. These distinctive features are unique to genuine leather, a product that has been raised rather than engineered. No two hides will be exactly alike, as with all things in nature.
Leather is the strongest upholstery material traditionally used for furniture and has been proven to outlast fabric at least four to one. While all leather is inherently durable and strong, there are significant differences between leathers. Top grain leather is the strong supple top layer of the hide. These hides have been processed to retain the leathers' natural ability to constantly adjust to its environment. It absorbs moisture and regulates its surface temperature so that it is warm and comfortable in the winter and cool in the summer. Leather, a product of nature, has its own life history recorded as grain, wrinkles, scratches and scars acquired from life on the range.
Understanding Leather's Natural Markings
Even the best leather has natural markings, which are analogous to fingerprints. They distinguish genuine leather from man-made materials. Some marks that can appear on the surface of leather are healed scratches, barbed wire marks, wrinkles and insect bites. Any of these markings may be present on your furniture and is your assurance that you have a true top grain leather. Leather is a natural product; grain pattern and color may vary from hide to hide and within the hide.
Shade and Tone Variation
Leather is unique as an upholstery covering. Surface features testify to the authenticity of natural leather. Variation across a hide, density of grain, creases and folds are distinctive characteristics, much like the grain of a fine piece of wood. Leather is not like a bolt of cloth. On a sofa, five hides may be utilized which will blend and complement, but will never be identical. Like any natural product, grain pattern and color may vary from hide to hide and within each individual hide. In the dying process, no pigments are used, so each hide absorbs "color" based on its individual cell structure. Each area of the hide will absorb dye in varying amounts, and thus be darker or lighter than other areas; much like wood varies in color when stained. This explains why an arm of a leather sofa may have a different shade than the cushions or the back of the sofa. They were simply cut from different parts of the same hide.
Healed Scars
Healed scratches are reflective of the steer's lifelong encounters. These healed scratch marks are evidence of this cow's unsheltered life. These form as a result of barbed wire scratches, disease and infestation or by horns of other cattle. The new healed skin is as strong as the remainder of the hide. It is normal to use scars and areas of rough grain on the outside backs and arms. Markings on your leather furniture are natural, and in no way affect the strength or wear ability of the leather. These unique characteristics are your assurance of genuine leather.
Wrinkles
Neck and shoulder creases appear as elongated furrows. Wrinkles naturally occur in a hide as a result of the neck stretching and contracting. Skin located on the neck of a steer is full and loose. This enables the steer to have the flexibility it needs to move its head while grazing. Wrinkles naturally occur in the hide.
Variation in Grain
Variations in grain pattern occur during the life of a steer. The grain is relatively tight across the backbone while it may be very loose in the belly and flank areas. The looser areas consequently have more stretch. Graining, like human fingerprints, is unique to each individual hide.
Stretch Marks
Stretch marks appear in cowhides for the same reasons they do in humans. The process of calving requires the stretching of the skin to accommodate the new calf. Nothing could be more natural. Stretch marks are used in leather furniture.
Veins
Growth marks and veins are an indication of the age of the animal and in that respect, are similar to the graining on a piece of timber. They range from often quite pronounced marks in the neck area to subtle bands across the hide perpendicular to the backbone. Again, these are quite natural and are used in furniture.
Types of Leather
The leather industry has gone through many changes. Steps have been taken to form different looks and feel to please a wide variety of customer wants and needs. Determining the type of leather, how that leather was finished and the proper method to clean, maintain and protect these various leathers requires knowledge and experience. Often the seller or the seller’s representative does not know the proper method of leather care needed for a particular leather type purchased.
Leather is tanned, and or finished in many different ways. Below is some detailed information and the three main categories that leather furniture is referred to today.
Finished, Pigmented, Semi Aniline, Aniline Plus & Everyday Leather
These leathers have combined the best aspects of a natural product (leather) and have utilized tannery technology to create a product that is more uniform in appearance and color (due to the applications of pigments to the surface). It then has a finish applied to the surface that makes the leather more resistant to the effects of heavy use. The pigments and finish applied to the leather do affect the softness and hand somewhat. As more pigment or finish is applied, the softness of the leather lessens.
What determines the amount of pigment and finish needed is:
- The color of the leather
- The selection of the leather
- The desired level of resistance the finish needs. Protected leathers are by far the most popular and common types of leather sold on furnishings. You can prevent peeling and finish decay by having these leathers cleaned, conditioned and re protected annually.
Aniline Leathers, also known as Natural, Unprotected, Pure or Naked Leathers
These leathers are colored with transparent dye. This means that you are able to see the actual surface grain and markings. It is as if you are looking through a colored lens. These leathers have very little or no protective treatments applied to them. The most common thing to do is to spray a wax finish on the surface that gives short-term water repellence. The actual way that the leather is made varies from tannery to tannery.
Nubuck leathers, also known as Chaps, Distressed, Buckskin, bomber or Suede leathers
These leathers are actually aniline leathers on which the surface has been brushed, and have created a texture similar to velvet on leather. Many people confuse these with Suede leather. Suede is the flesh side of a piece of leather, and nubuck is an "effect" that is done to the grain side, making it incredibly soft. The brushing also makes the leather even more absorbent than aniline leathers. This makes these two leathers sometimes difficult to distinguish from each other. The most difficult to identify are the ones which are in the distressed leathers category or which have waxed finishes applied to them.
Finished and Unfinished Leather
First, here is some base-line information about leather to help you better understand its properties.
Leather is a natural product. It comes from animal skins which have been chemically processed (tanned) to preserve them. A properly tanned hide (or skin) creates strong, flexible leather, resistant to decay.
Most leather is tanned cow hide. Cow hides are about 1/4 to 3/8 inches thick, which is too heavy for general upholstery application. Therefore, hides are split laterally, rendering an upper and lower cut.
The upper portion is the top-grain, or full-grain. The lower portion is the split. This cutting process creates different “faces” to the leather. The outside face of the top- or full-grain shows the natural grain characteristics, but is otherwise smooth, whereas, the underside appears as suede.
Now let’s determine what type of leather you have. There are two basic categories: Finished or Unfinished. Briefly, finished leather is first dyed via immersion in an aniline dye solution, and then the outside face of the hide is coated with a pigmented resin, and then a subsequent clear-coating. Unfinished leather processing stops at the first dyeing process, without any resin coating. Finished leather is protected by the color-coating and clear-coating, and unfinished is unprotected, not having either of these subsequent coatings applied.
The following table depicts comparative features.
| FEATURE | FINISHED | UNFINISHED |
|---|---|---|
| Color | Pigment color coating on the leather's surface | Aniline dye color in the leather |
| Stain Protection | Color coating protects against staining | Absorbs liquid - prone to staining |
| Fading | Pigment coating is fade resistant | Dyes fade from light exposure (UV) |
| Color Richness | Color coating is flat, lacking depth | Coloring is rich, accentuating natural beauty of the leather |
| Feel (or Hand) | Leather feels harder, colder, stiffer | Buttery soft, warms quickly, inviting |
So, simply put, finished leather color is from a pigment coating on the leather, whereas unfinished is from a dye in the leather. Finished leather is stain and fade resistant but lacks deep richness in color, and tends to be stiffer. Unfinished leather is soft and natural-looking but fades and stains readily. Unfinished leather tends to be more expensive. This graphic depicts the difference between finished and unfinished.
The topical coating can range from thin to thick. If there is a very light color or clear coat on top of aniline-dyed leather, it is often referred to as “semi-aniline.” Semi-aniline leather offers modest protection while retaining much of the aesthetic beauty of an unfinished aniline-dyed leather.
If this information is sufficient for you to be sure of your type of leather, then click on the appropriate category below to get the specifics of how to care for your leather.
If you're still not sure, or want to learn more then see below for a detailed description of finished and unfinished leathers, as well as links to specific details about their corresponding sub-categories.
Finished: The leather has a topical pigment coat applied. One of the most common coatings consists of a soft acrylic color coating under a urethane clear coating (for durability). These resins create a film that bonds to the surface of the leather. It's primary goal is to protect the leather, providing wear, stain, and fade resistance.
Finished leather will resist staining by water- or oil-based agents (if a drop of water is put directly on the leather surface, the water bead remains on the surface, and does not soak in and darken the material.) The clear coating mentioned above determines the final reflective value of the leather surface (ranging from high gloss, all the way down to a matte or dull finish, depending how much dulling agent is added to the clear coat resin before application), so sheen is not necessarily a help in determining leather type. Generally, finished leathers do not have that "buttery soft" leather feel (or hand) associated with raw leather. Also note, finished leathers can be described as aniline-dyed, and still have a topical pigment applied. Finished leathers are much less susceptible to fading.
Unfinished: The leather does not have a topical pigment applied, or has a minimal resin coating to retain the hand of raw leather. The color is achieved by immersing hides in aniline dyes that are absorbed into the leather, accentuating the natural beauty of the hide. Because leather's absorption characteristics are not uniform, variations in color are common. The water drop test will result in the drop transferring into the leather, darkening or staining the area. Because unfinished leathers are colored using organic aniline dyes, they are much more susceptible to fading (caused by UV exposure).
Do’s and Don’t of Leather Care
NEVER CLEAN WITH SOAPS AND DETERGENTS-Soaps and detergents can cause the leather's surface to break down and, in some cases, will remove color.
NEVER USE OILS OR SILICONE-With continued use, oils may darken leather or soften the color, causing it to peel or wear off. Silicones cause leather to become shiny and slippery, attracting dust more readily and making repairs and refinishing impossible.
AVOID DIRECT SUNLIGHT-Colors and finishes can fade in the sun.
NEVER USE "HOME REMEDIES"-Damages like ink stains or oil stains should be handled by a professional leather care service. Doing it yourself can cause irreversible damage.
AVOID EXTREME TEMPERATURE-Don't place leather furniture near radiators or air conditioners, as it will hasten the drying process.
REMOVE SPILLS IMMEDIATELY-Use absorbent paper toweling or a cloth to remove liquid spills. For grease or oil, use talcum powder or cornstarch to absorb the spill. Never use water on grease or oil spills.
BEFORE USING ANY CLEANING METHOD-When maintaining and cleaning your leather furniture yourself, be sure to test any cleaning method on a hidden spot of your leather furniture to be sure of effectiveness.
INVEST IN A QUALITY LEATHER CONDITIONER-Leather is a natural product. The use of a leather conditioner is suggested every 6 to 12 months to help maintain its natural beauty.
Quick Care and Cleaning Tips for the “Big 3” Leather Types
The are many different ideas floating around about leather care and leather cleaning. The first thing to do is to determine what kind of leather you have. The three most commonly used types are finished leather, anline leather, and nubuck. Different leathers require different care. Mostly what you will be doing is cleaning the surface of the leather (not as easy as it sounds). There is no extraction process for leather so surface cleaning is as good as it gets.
Finished leather
For finished leathers the cleaning process can be a little more aggressive than other types. Using a cleaner made for leather only (don't use any multi-purpose cleaners) follow the manufacturer direction. Sometimes using a very soft bristled brush can speed things along nicely for the heavy grained leather. Go slowly and carefully paying close attention to anything that looks like it may be changing the finish of the leather. If it looks like the leather did not get fully clean, wait until it dries and then try another application of the cleaner.
Aniline leather
Aniline leather is extremely delicate and for the most part cannot be cleaned. If you have stains in your leather it is most likely aniline and the stains are most likely permanent. The best approach for anilines is to get them stain guarded before use and then have it done on a regular basis to prevent staining. We offer a remedy for staining but you will have to call us and arrange a service. One other point with aniline is if it is faded, conditioning it will not restore the original color and neither will cleaning.
Nubuck
Nubuck is a top grain leather that has a brushed finish that almost has a velvety feel. This type of leather again is extremely luxurious but extremely delicate. Most cleaning is done by brushing out the dirt on the surface. Stains, ink, and discolorations are permanent and will not clean out.
SOURCE: http://www.technique-leather-repair.com/leather-care.html
Some Misconceptions and Facts About Leather
Leather furniture is hot to sit in during the summer and cold in the winter.
It is true that leather interiors of automobiles do tend to get very hot during the warmer months. In contrast, indoor leather furniture will warm up to your body heat. During hotter weather, because of leather being a natural product and having the ability to breath, it will be cooling to sit on.
Leather furniture is hard to care for.
Leather furniture can be easy to care for if done on a regular basis. Do not use regular cleaning solutions (solvents, soaps, etc...). Immediately clean up spills that occur on your leather furniture. Also use a quality leather conditioner every 6 to 12 months.
Leather furniture does not last over the years.
Leather furniture is an investment in quality for life. Because leather is a natural product, aging will actually make your leather furniture more beautiful the older it gets when properly cared for.
Kids and pets can destroy your leather furniture easier then other types of furniture.
Unless your child deliberately uses a sharp object on your piece of leather furniture or your cat uses it as a scratching post, leather furniture is no more vulnerable to damage then other types of furniture. To give you added protection you can purchase leather furniture that has been treated with protective coatings.
SOURCE: http://totalleathersolutions.com/leather-facts.html
Tips to Help You Properly Clean and Condition Leather
There are various types and grades of leathers, each serving a different purpose. Some require a bit more maintenance than others, but all follow a set guideline of care to ensure a longer life.
There are four stages in leather care that include cleaning, conditioning, polishing, and protection. When perusing the store shelves for a product that fits your needs, be watchful for what kind of product you're purchasing. It can be confusing to try and figure out which product is for which stage, but look for words that explain how the product is to be used. It is also important to remember to work on your leather in a well-ventilated area. Some leather care products are very strong and can cause irritations.
Cleaning
To clean a leather item, first choose a cleaner that will help preserve the natural lubricating oils instead of stripping them. For example, saddle soap is a commonly used product for equestrian tack. It is meant to be used as a cleaner and a protector from moisture, but it strips the leather of the oils in the process of attempting to do two jobs at once. The cleaner of your choice should not leave any greasy residue behind. Residue makes leather susceptible to bacteria and can break down the stitching of your item. Before applying anything to your leather item, be certain to test it out for effect and possible color distortion on an area that isn't visible to the eye. Once you've ascertained whether the leather care product is acceptable to use, apply it to your item. With a slightly dampened cloth, remove the cleaning product. For areas with stitches, there are brushes available on the market. Another cleaning product to consider having in your leather care collection is a nubuck cleaning cloth. They have an astonishing ability to clean and restore leather to its original look.
Conditioning
Leather conditioners are meant for occasional use. They contain fats and/or oils that help lubricate leather and replenish the suppleness. Look for a product that will penetrate the strong fibers in leather, but beware of any that include petroleum or mineral oils. While petroleum by-products won't damage your leather immediately, they do over a period of time. Again, just as with cleaning, keep on the look out for thick, greasy conditioning treatments for the best care of your leather.
Polishing
Polishing is done for special occasions when you want a more glossy finish on your leather. There are a couple things to be wary of when purchasing a polishing agent. Some products contain coloring factors that will brush off on things you come in contact with. Some products also have a tendency to clog the pores in leather or dry leather out. Just as with cleaning, be sure to test out the product on a small area and when ready, buff to a shine.
Protection
Moisture barriers are extremely crucial in preventing rain or other liquid hazards from damaging leather. Stiffness and spouting will happen if leather isn't protected beforehand. There is a drawback in protecting leather with a moisture barrier product. They tend to fill in the pores with a greasiness that makes cleaning, conditioning, and polishing difficult, but it's a necessary process to ensure leather isn't destroyed. Periodically apply a moisture barrier and allow it time to penetrate and dry before using your leather item.
Removing Mildew
To remove mildew from leather, create a mixture of one-cup rubbing alcohol per one-cup of water. Wipe the mildew area with a cloth dipped in the diluted alcohol, then allow it to dry. If the mildew persists, use mild soap and water that contains a germicide, then remove with a clean dampened cloth and let dry.
Wet Leather
An important key to keeping leather in top-notch condition is to treat wet leather before it has a chance to dry. Remove any dirt, mud, or other stains with a cleaning agent, then condition while the pores are still fully responsive. It is critical to remember that leather should be dried away from heat. If the leather in question is a garment, it's a good idea to stuff the garment to retain shape.
Storing Leather
Remember that leather is a natural material and should never be stored in plastic because it encourages the growth of mildew and bacteria and will ruin the leather. Always store leather in a cool, dry place away from heat. If the leather item is a garment, store in a breathable bag.
Removing Stains
Fresh stains from things such as blood and food can be cleaned up quickly with a damp cloth. Stains from oil or grease can be lifted by grinding ordinary blackboard chalk, sprinkling the area, and leaving the powder on for a twenty-four hour period. Resist the urge to rub the powder in. After a sufficient time has past, simply use a leather care brush to remove the powder. While fresh stains can be treated and cleaned at home, ground-in stains should be attended to by a professional cleaner who deals in leather.
Source: http://www.essortment.com/all/leathercaretip_rico.htm
Leather Cleaning Tips
Leather is an expensive but durable material and is hence used in the manufacturing of a large range of products. However, leather products require a great deal of care and maintenance. Cleaning is also part of this, so here are some leather cleaning tips to keep your leather products in tip-top shape...
Leather items are very popular due to their majestic look and durability. If maintained properly, leather goods are extremely durable and long-lasting. Usually hides of cattle, buffalo, alligators, ostriches and snakes are used for manufacturing a large number of leather products including furniture, shoes, clothing and accessories like wallets, belts, purses, jackets, etc. Leather products can be classified mainly into two types, finished leather and unfinished leather. So, before applying any cleaning product, it is essential to make sure that what can be used on a particular type of leather. Use of any unsuitable product can ruin the finish of leather items and reduce their lifespan.
Leather Cleaning Tips
Cleaning leather is not a very easy task. You have to take proper care not to spoil your leather items by inappropriate and injudicious use of harsh chemicals. Before using any commercial product, check the label to make sure that it does not contain too many chemicals. The best way to keep leather clean is to prevent any kind of stain and accumulation of dirt and dust. It is essential to keep them conditioned, otherwise, they can become dry and stiff. Here are some tips on cleaning leather that may help you in keeping your leather furniture and garments free from dirt and stains.
Cleaning Tips for Finished Leather
For cleaning finished leather products, only the recommended cleaning products should be used. Mild moisturizing soap can also be used for cleaning stains from finished leather. First, make a very light lather with a soft damp cloth or sponge and gently rub the stained area. Use another damp cloth for wiping, but make sure that you do not rinse leather. Use a dry soft cloth or towel to wipe up any remaining moisture and let it dry completely. Once it has dried, you can use a good leather conditioner to restore the normal level of moisture.
Cleaning Tips for Unfinished Leather
For cleaning unfinished leather, saddle soap or lather soap, which are especially designed for leather cleaning can be used. For using saddle soap, first make a light foam with a soft damp cloth or sponge and then proceed in the same way as in case of finished leather. Once cleaning is done, allow it to dry and then apply leather preservative to it.
Leather Furniture Cleaning Tips
Leather furniture is cherished for its classic look and durability. Cleaning leather furniture is very important to retain that look. Follow some simple leather sofa cleaning tips like using water based foam leather cleaners, and avoiding the conditioners that contain waxes and silicone. Also do not use solvents or abrasive cleaners on leather furniture. Soak up any kind of spill immediately to avoid the appearance of hard stains. Regular dusting with the help of a cotton cloth or vacuum cleaner is sufficient to remove dirt and prevent stains.
Cleaning Tips for Leather Shoes and Clothing
Leather shoes are more likely to sustain tough stains. Use white vinegar to clean them, followed by the application of cold pressed nut oil and olive oil. Leave these oils for sometime, so that the leather shoes can absorb them. Then with the help of a lint free cloth buff them to shine.
For cleaning leather clothing, you can try a mixture of castile soap, olive oil and a few drops of grapefruit seed extract. Essential oils can be added to this mixture, which will freshen the cloths by removing odor. Water, about ½ a gallon, should be added to this mixture before applying on the garments with a soft cloth. This not only cleanses, but also conditions leather garments.
Homemade Leather Cleaner
An effective homemade leather cleaner as well as conditioner can be made by combining vinegar and Neat's-foot oil or linseed oil. The amount of Neat's-foot oil or linseed oil should be double than that of vinegar. Use a soft cloth to buff leather with this mixture. For removing stains, toothpaste can also be applied on leather. Gently scrub the stained area with some toothpaste and then wipe it off with a damp cloth. Nail polish removers, only the non-acetone based ones, can be used for removing ink stains from leather. Another important homemade leather cleaner can be prepared with the help of lemon juice and cream of tartar. Just mix equal parts of lemon juice and cream of tartar to make a fine paste. Apply this on the stain and then wipe off with a clean damp cloth.
These simple leather cleaning tips will help you to maintain your leather products. Leather items easily fade in sunlight. So, keep them away from direct sunlight. Also do not store them in damp places, as this will promote the growth of mold and mildews. In all, leather products need to be protected from the extremities of weather. Before using any kind of cleaning product, it is advisable to try it on a small inconspicuous area on the leather. It is also recommended to consult a professional to know more about leather cleaning and the types of products that can be safely used for this.
SOURCE: http://www.buzzle.com/articles/leather-cleaning-tips.html
Five Great Tips for Removing Stains from Your Leather
1) The very first step and most important on how to get stains out from upholstery is to know what fabric you are working with. Fortunately most furniture will tell you that right on their tags. W informs you that the best course of action is to use a water based solution or very mild detergent to get stains out.
SW indicates that you should spot clean the piece of furniture with either a solvent or water based foam cleaning agent.
S means that you should be able to get this stain out with a strong solvent. Be very careful when using a solvent because when used incorrectly it can lead to spotting and water stains.
X is for vacuum only.
2) The longer a spill is allowed to sit the more difficult it will be to get the stain out. It is imperative that you remove any excess liquid or soil from a spill ASAP!
3) If the fabric can be cleaned with water, use one gallon cool or warm water to about 5 teaspoons of mild dishwashing liquid. If the spill is grease or something that has caramelized sugar, your solution should be 50% white vinegar and 50% water.
4) Always test any cleaner on a hidden spot of the furniture to confirm positive results before applying to more visible areas.
5) Remember to be gentle when applying any type of cleaning solution. Whether it be water, a mild detergent or a heavy duty solvent, if you scrub the stain to aggressively it may cause the upholstery to pill.
What is meant when leather is referred to in "ounces"?
Leather thickness is usually measured in terms of ounces. One ounce equals 1/64" in thickness. Thus, a weight of 7 to 8 oz. means the leather is 7/64" to 8/64" in thickness, or approximately 1/8" thick. The thickness of leather varies to some extent throughout the hide. This is why leathers are usually shown with a range of thickness such as 4 to 5 oz., or 6 to 7 oz. As a comparison, a quarter (coin) is equal to a 4 oz. thickness
Unlike man-made materials that appear flawless, any skin has surface scratches and scars, etc., and contain Subtle variations in color and texture resulting in natural markings which add to the uniqueness of each item. These variations in no way affect the durability or performance of the glove. Normal use will enhance the character of this leather
How to Love Your Leather
Leather is a beautiful product, whether for clothes, shoes or accessories. It is sturdy and durable as well, but great care must be taken in order to maintain its sheen and impressive appearance.
One of the most critical areas of leather is cleaning it. Using the wrong type of cleaning material can absolutely ruin that leather jacket. For example, never use solvents or abrasives, not even saddle soap or household soaps or cleansers. They may effectively clean the material but some of them are just incompatible with today's water-based leather finishes. They may cause severe damage to the leather such as cracking. Like skin, leather also suffers when it comes in direct exposure to sunlight or other heat sources.
Leather care experts recommend gently dusting leather surfaces weekly to remove all traces of dirt and soil. It is recommended that you apply a leather conditioner or a leather protector at least once a year. If someone has spilled a drink on your leather pants, immediately blot out the wet spots with a soft absorbent cloth. You can remove residual stains by soaking the cloth in a solution of water and a mild, non-detergent soap. Dab at it gently because rubbing vigorously can remove the leather's color or leave uneven marks. It is important to let the leather air and dry after cleaning.
For ink stains, the best results can be achieved by working to remove the stain early. It is important to have some type of ink or stain remover on hand, followed by a leather-cleaning product. And don't forget to dab gently.
It takes an entirely different approach if you're trying to remove bubble gum. The trick is to gently heat the gum with a hair dryer until it dries. Take a clean white cloth and rub the gum from the leather surface into the cloth. If there are residual marks, quickly apply grease on them.
In the case of nubuck or suede shoes, routinely brush these on a regular basis to remove topical soil Spills are to be blotted immediately with an absorbent cloth.